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How much does Caledonian Edinburgh cost and how to book it

Current rates at the Caledonian start at 178 British pounds ($230) or 54,000 Hilton Honors points per night. The two-bedroom suite my family shared starts at 2,936 pounds ($3,803) per night.

Rooms at the Caledonian Edinburgh

Our suite was spacious and upscale, though not truly luxurious. The bed was comfortable, but not remarkable. There were thoughtful touches like a Bluetooth speaker, Dyson hair dryer, and yoga equipment, though, and the bathrooms were full of Aesop amenities, and each had a separate shower and free-standing tub.

Awaiting us when we entered the room were several bottles of water as well as a box of chocolates and a note from the manager – a nice touch, again thanks to my husband’s Diamond status.

If you’re a heavy packer, closet space will be an issue, as our room only had armoires, not full closets. Most of the space in the armory was also taken up by amenities like yoga equipment, hair dryers, umbrellas and safes, so pack light.

The living room had a sofa with velvet chairs as well as a small table that provided ample space for eating. Sitting at the table, the view of Edinburgh Castle was postcard-worthy, and the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon of writing.

However, the rooms were not perfect. There were several areas where the age of the hotel was apparent, and not in a good way. The paint was peeling in several places, and some areas of the suite had acoustic panels for the ceiling — which didn’t quite fit the overall feel and price point of the hotel.

The bathroom that I shared a shower with my husband also had a very slow drain which caused it to drain every time we showered (and we take quick showers) and all three bathrooms lacked counter space.

Dust was visible on some surfaces and some lamps were not working. These issues will likely be addressed during renovations, but for now, don’t expect pristine rooms.

I’ve read in other articles about the Caledonian that road noise can seep into rooms because the hotel’s historic status limits the windows it can upgrade. That wasn’t our experience, though. Despite the busy bus stop almost directly below our room, we slept soundly.

What we ate at the Caledonian Edinburgh

The Caledonian has two full-fledged restaurants by Scottish celebrity chefs: Dean Banks at The Pompadour and grazed by Mark Greenaway, both of which are still in the hotel after rebranding. Since it was still a Waldorf Astoria during our spring stay, there was also an outpost of the chain’s Peacock Alley, which usually serves breakfast, light lunches, and tea, though it didn’t during our stay. The hotel’s traditional bar is called The Kelly.

Although the place is probably undergoing a transformation right now, on our first night, my husband and I went down to Peacock Alley for drinks. The hotel was aiming for a sleek, chic space like Peacock Alleys at other Waldorf properties, and it came very close to succeeding. The space itself is quite large as it used to be the main station entrance with high ceilings. Two-by-four-top tables and booths were scattered around, and on our evening there was a jazz quartet playing. The mood was terrific, but the space felt too big for the purpose. You’ll need at least a hundred people to make the lounge feel comfortable.

In the morning, we all had breakfast at Grazing by Mark Greenaway. The extensive buffet includes American, Continental and traditional Scottish options, as well as fruit and yogurt for the health conscious. My family sampled dishes ranging from pancakes to haggis, and all were delicious — with the exception of the vegetarian haggis (who thought that was a good idea?). A standout was the build your own bloody mary bar – the perfect remedy for the morning after an Edinburgh pub crawl.

That evening, we also had dinner at Charai. I ordered the venison loin ($48), while my family enjoyed the grilled salmon ($44) and rib-eye ($51). I may be a little biased because venison is a favorite and I don’t get to eat it very often, but this dish was the highlight of my trip. The waist cacao had a crust, which seems like it wouldn’t work, but it marries deliciously with the flavor of the meat. Grilled Scottish salmon was done to pink perfection and the rib-eye was rib-eye — juicy, but nothing special. For sides we had fries and macaroni and cheese ($7.60 each). Both were nice accompaniments, but again, nothing special.

Facilities and things to do

• The Caledonian has a pool and spa, although they can be hard to find as they are located deep inside the old train station. The pool has an attached hot tub and sauna nearby. Changing facilities are available at the pool.
• The hotel is next to Princes Street Gardens and Johnnie Walker is across the road from Princes Street. It is an easy stroll to the Scott Monument, the National Galleries of Scotland and the shopping and dining areas in the New Town.
• While the hotel is close to Edinburgh Castle, unless you’ve brought along your rock climbing equipment, you’ll be in for a hike. To get to the castle and attractions in the Old Town, you have about a 3/4-mile walk, most of which is up a steep hill. It is 1 1/2 miles from the Palace at Holyrood House and 3 miles from the Royal Yacht Britannia.
• Take time to talk to doormen, clerks and restaurant staff. All are warm and friendly and happy to tell you insider stories about the property and make local recommendations.
• The Caledonian is in a historic building which may lead to some accessibility challenges. Elevators are small but should fit most mobility aids. However, space for bags or other passengers will be limited. The hallways and doors are wide, though, and the hallways themselves are bright. Bathrooms have accessible rooms with 32-inch doors and grab bars. Sauna, pool and hot tub are not accessible. For more details, and to ensure that Caledonian can provide you with a comfortable stay, contact the hotel directly.

Bottom line

I wish The Caledonian Edinburgh, Hilton’s Curio Collection, had a shorter name, but I wish I could stay longer.

While its historic feel may not appeal to all tourists, the atmosphere is great for history and architecture buffs. The location is hard to beat, allowing you to access attractions and local neighborhoods alike. The dining options are good, but given Edinburgh’s burgeoning restaurant scene, you may want to venture further afield for a truly incredible culinary experience.

The hotel was not up to luxury standards during our stay, despite its high price, and the age of the building brings some other issues, so we are excited about the renovation and rebranding. Here’s hoping the hotel continues to delight guests with its old-world charms and inviting staff for decades to come, and those points will be easy to redeem.