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Foodies, take note: soil In the second annual “Global Tastemakers Awards” by the American magazine Food & Wine, it has been awarded not only a Michelin star but also a place among the top twenty restaurants in the world – the only Greek restaurant to make this prestigious list. Located in the Pangarati neighborhood of Athens, just a block away from the Olympic rings of the Panathenaic Stadium, the restaurant is an arena of taste in itself, satisfying its audience by competing for gold in taste and presentation. A culinary amphitheater, if you will.

As we make our approach to the entrance of this beautifully restored neoclassical house, the door opens, as if our arrival is already anticipated. We are warmly greeted by co-owner Alex Moridis and ushered through the open-plan kitchen to the renovated courtyard at the rear of the building – an inviting space that reflects the earthy ethos and commitment to sustainability. For Soil also has a Michelin Green Star, awarded to restaurants that demonstrate an exceptional commitment to sustainability.

After sitting down, we learn more about the ethos of the restaurant and how sustainable gastronomy is at its core. We are told about the restaurant’s Alepochori garden, an hour’s drive from Athens, and are proudly shown a garden box that showcases some of the ingredients used for the gastronomic adventure we are about to experience.

food

Course 1: Oysters, Osetra caviar, fermented cucumber, unripe figs

Our meal begins with oysters prepared two ways – steamed and poached – topped with fermented cucumber, subtle notes of unripe figs and Ocetra caviar. It is beautifully presented in a delicate dish, and the contrasting textures provide a complex but appealing balance of flavors.

The next course featured a trio of Greek berries and watermelon, complemented by white asparagus ice cream, fermented green asparagus and fennel hyssop oil – a harmony of sweet, sour, creamy and savory elements.

Next, a fresh and vibrant medley of amberjack, lovage, kiwi, green apple and pine nuts, presented with a beautiful herb book to keep as a gift. The fish is semi-cured, almost raw, so the texture is firm but this enables the amberjack flavor to shine through.

This is followed by semi-cured shrimp marinated in fresh herbs from the mud garden, served with oranges, pecans, marigolds, a citrus vinaigrette and mussels emulsion. It is a colorful composition and one that delights the taste buds.

Our fifth course is carpaccio and 72-day dry-aged beef in tartare that sits on a savory pancake with horseradish cream, ramsom (wild garlic) capers, umeboshi powder and gel made from pre-Covid restaurant cherries. . It’s delightfully rich yet mildly edgy and pungent.

We were then treated to a dish that had only been added to the menu the day before – tomato, lemon basil, smyrnium, sardine. It consists of three different types of cherry tomatoes, watermelon, strawberries, three different types of basil, topped with a steady layer of tomato juice. It’s refreshingly juicy, even if it’s not my favorite course of the evening.

That honor went to the next dish – an eel mini burger consisting of eel liver saute and parfait with a thin layer of guanciale and a mayonnaise of vaduvan and sorrel leaves. It had a deep, earthy richness and intense umami flavor.

We passed the tasting menu’s halfway point with rose scallops with leek saute, and beurre noisette foam perfumed with coffee, topped with crispy chicken skin with yeast. I must admit, I couldn’t really detect the coffee but the flavors work well together.

Then we were served some homemade rotis decorated with pumpkins and poppies.

This was followed by the signature course – sous vide cod fillet served with beurre blanc perfumed with mussels, kombu oil and fresh chives, paired with sauvignon blanc with a distinctive nutty flavour. Tender and moist, it had a very delicate flavor and for me it was a very close second to the eel mini burger.

Roasted goat (or eel fillet for our pescatarian son) followed – another satisfying dish – with fermented ramson leaves, cream of white apromitiko beans from the island of Lemnos, dehydrated seafood XO sauce and fresh wild greens sautéed from the restaurant. the garden

We then enjoyed a tart slice as a pre-dessert of bitter orange and mandarin sorbet, topped with a mango crisp, and underneath tangerine marmalade and white chocolate crumble, sitting with thin slices of caramelized carrot. Citrus fruit juice flavored with marigold.

The main dessert consisted of salted caramel ice cream, chocolate clay and topped with sour chips, sitting on a honeycomb base. My wife, who is usually not a fan of salted caramel, really enjoyed this one, as the saltiness was relatively subtle and blended harmoniously with the rich sweetness of the ice cream.

Our spectacular evening ended with white chocolate macaroons, a selection of chocolates and mulberries, blackberries and mint from the garden.

chef

Chef and co-owner Tassos Mentis is highly respected for his innovative approach to Greek cuisine that blends deep-rooted traditions with innovative techniques to capture the imagination. He has held prestigious roles in numerous Michelin-awarded restaurants worldwide, including Hof van Cleve in Belgium (3 Michelin stars), Geranium in Copenhagen (3 Michelin stars), Frantzen in Stockholm (3 Michelin stars), and Fat Duck in the UK (3 Michelin stars). is 3 Michelin stars). He returned to Greece to lead the team at Hytra in Athens. At Soil, he continues to push culinary boundaries, promising diners new gastronomic surprises that reflect his unwavering dedication to quality and creativity.

atmosphere

There is a very pure peace in the soil. We dined al fresco in the restaurant’s back patio where most of the viewing is under cover trees and a canopy of fairy lights. It is an inclusive, relaxing space with an inviting, contemporary atmosphere that feels both intimate and relaxed. As night falls, soft, ambient lighting enhances the warm colors of the wooden furnishings and exposed stone walls. This garden setting has a gentle hum of conversation that complements the organic and earthy atmosphere of the restaurant.

For those seeking a more intimate experience, the revamped Chef’s Table offers an exclusive setting in a newly renovated room at the front of the property. Here chef Tassos Mentis and his team prepare the dishes in front of diners before these creations are added to the restaurant’s menu.

Price

A 14-course tasting menu costs €105.

There are a number of pairings to choose from: Sommelier pairing €85; Greek premium pair at 125 euros; a champagne pairing at €140; or a juice pairing at €75.

final judgment

Mati offers an extraordinary journey into the heart of Greek gastronomy. In just three years since its opening, it has established itself as a sanctuary of refined taste and elegance, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Athens city center. It’s not just a restaurant, but an experience., and one that promises to linger in your memory long after your meal is over.

Disclosure: This post is sponsored by soil.