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The Scandinavian word ‘hygge’, the concept of relaxing and being comfortable at home, has become very popular globally in the last few years. Norwegians have the term ‘friluftsliv’, a philosophy of embracing outdoor activities and immersing oneself in nature. What better place to do this than the fjordlands. Visiting picturesque cities, on a boat cruise on a fjord, driving, hiking or skiing in the stunning Sunmore Alps, this part of Norway has some of the most stunning scenery in Scandinavia.

A ferry slices through the glassy waters of the fjord. Towering rock walls stretched spectacularly above us. Abandoned farmhouses cling to the cliff face, and a thin waterfall cascades down to meet the calm surface of the fjord. We are at the center of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a place of breathtaking natural beauty and the sapphire-coloured jewels of Norway’s western fjords.

Disembarking from the ferry in the small town of Geiranger, we climb 327 steps, on a walkway that runs along the bottom of the Storsæterfossen waterfall, to our hotel, very elegant. Hotel Union. This hotel is where Princess Martha Louise of Norway will soon marry American self-styled shaman Durek Verret. Renovations are underway for the wedding, so, apart from the builder, we have the space, while getting a taste of what the upcoming private wedding ceremony and celebration days will be like.

We head down from the hotel to the old boathouse on the water’s edge with an afternoon tour of the fjord in a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) planned for the afternoon. Dressed in insulated dry-suits, we board the boat. Heading out we zip, zoom and zigzag across the water. The air is cool, crisp and fresh. Rugged cliffs tower above us as the boat navigates high-speed twists and turns. I don’t think I’ve ever embraced an outdoor activity, or my seat, any tighter! This is definitely the fastest way to see the fjord.

We cruise deep into the heart of the fjord. The captain cuts the engine. The silence is sudden, broken only by the eerie cry of an eagle and the distant roar of a waterfall cascading down the mountainside. It’s as if we’re in a nature documentary, except instead of watching on the Discovery Channel, we’re right in the middle of it all. We spot the seals and porpoises that often call these waters home and think about the harsh lives lived by the people who once made a living in the abandoned farmhouses on the cliffs above us.

Two hours from Giranger and the next stop on our journey, Ålesund could be taken straight from the pages of a fairy tale. A devastating fire in 1904 left much of the city in ashes, but rebuilt, Ålesund now not only has the world’s best concentration of Art Nouveau buildings, but is also nestled among the sea, islands and Norway’s best fjords, making it perfect. A base for exploring this stunning part of the world.

We lace up our walking shoes and hit the cobbled streets of Ålesund. After a short visit to Art Nouveau Center and Art Museum KUBETo learn more about the town, its history and its architecture, we climb the 418 steps to the Mount Aksla viewpoint. Succumbing to the strong wind, we gaze at the panoramic views of the city. Next on our agenda AtlanterhavesparkenNorthern Europe’s largest saltwater aquarium and marine science centre. We arrive in time to feed the seals each day and are completely charmed and entertained by both the seals and their keepers – who knew seals had such fun personalities?

Ålesund is sometimes called the ‘Venice of Norway’ because of its canals and narrow streets. The next morning, we decided to spend some time on a guided kayaking tour of the beautiful Brosundet canal, which snakes through the center of town. The colors and shapes of the buildings lining the canal are reflected on the surface of the water, and the smell of coffee wafts over the water from the small busking cafes that line the waterfront.

Passing under the low bridge that spans the canal, we can hear the chatter of passers-by above us. Reaching one end of the canal, we pass under the bridge and pop out near the cruise boat terminal. We see more cruise ships and passenger ferries

D, ready and waiting for departure. At the other end of the canal, we pass the small red Molja lighthouse, which has stood here for more than a century and a half, guiding ships into the harbor.

Ålesund is home to Norway’s most important fishing port, so seafood is definitely on the menu. On our way to lunch we visited one of the fishermen, in his bright yellow waterproof overalls, selling his catch straight from his boat in the canal. We appreciate his prawns, cod and salmon, but with nowhere to cook them ourselves, we continue to find a restaurant ourselves.

Leaving Alessand behind, we head out of town. We travel the roads leading into the Norwegian backcountry, passing through some of the most dramatic landscapes imaginable. Nordfjord is our next destination – nestled between Norway’s wild coast and the Jostedalsbreen glacier, the largest in Europe. At Løen, the innermost village of the Nordfjord, we decided to try our hand at snowshoeing and sledding. This Skylift Whisks us from the edge of the fjord to the top of Mt Hoven in minutes. Once at the top it is clear that my snow skills are somewhat lacking! Fortunately, the panoramic views over the fjord below more than make up for it. Retiring for lunch at the restaurant, perched on the edge of the snow-capped cliffs, it feels like we’re dining in a scene from a James Bond movie.

After a night in Sundar Hotel AlexandraWe decide that some skiing is on the cards. If you’re into skiing, the Norwegian fjords are the place to be and while Norway may not yet be on your radar for ski resorts, there are plenty of them and skiing here is cheaper than skiing in the Swiss or French Alps – insiders The Norwegian Alps are the best in the world to ski. Believe one of the places.

We travel to the nearby Strandfjellet ski resort, in the gorgeous Sunmore Alps, with its seven ski lifts, 18 downhills and Scandinavia’s best free-skiing area. Waiting for the gondola, skiers of various ages, but undeniable skill, zoom down the slope towards me, carving easily into the snow, their skis cutting fresh tracks in the snow. I feel scared and when I get off the gondola and meet my guide, I’m actually very happy to see that he has snow shoes and not skis waiting for me. It had rained the night before, and the slopes were too icy for someone like me, who hadn’t skied properly in years. Better safe than sorry. Leaving the descents to skilled, stylish skiers, I slip into my ski boots, looking a bit like a determined penguin.

After about an hour or so of walking, we reach a line of red deck chairs glistening in the snow. It’s the perfect place to sit and look out over the bright blue fjord far below, and with a hot solbertodi (black currant tea) in my hand, I decide I’ll have to come back and try skiing another time. The area is also popular with hiking enthusiasts, which is something I’m better at, so I think maybe I’ll come back in the summer and visit some of the trails instead.

For me the western fjordlands of Norway were the perfect blend of natural beauty and amazing outdoor adventures. From the calm, misty waters of the Geirangerfjord to the ski slopes of the Sunmore Alps or the canals of the charming Art Nouveau town of Ålesund, this part of the world is definitely about embracing the outdoors – Friluftsliv!